Route Map to reach Sach Pass


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Day 1: Gurgaon – Ambala – Ludhiana – Jallandhar – Pathankot – Chamba – Sundla
10-11 October 2008 # 668 Km
Day 2: Sundla – Bairagarh - Sach Pass – Bairagarh
12 October 2008 # 132 Km
Day 3: Bairagarh – Dalhousie – Pathankot – Jallandhar – Ludiana
13 October 2008 # 398 Km
Day 4: Ludhiana – Ambala – Panipat – Gurgaon
14 October 2008 # 333 Km

Total Distance # 1531 Km

To begin with, I would like to make it clear that this tour belongs to Anand Trivedi. He truly showed tremendous grit and determination over this really strenuous and really difficult tour. He had learnt how to ride a bike only a couple of months back and this was his first bike tour! The 2 of us were on separate bikes and Trivedi was riding Arpit’s Madhya Pradesh registered Pulsar 150 (of course after taking due permission from Tude himself!).

Day 1

This was to be my most difficult and challenging bike tour till date, and I had to prepare accordingly. After hints of interest from different quarters, it was for Trivedi and me to haul ourselves up the 14,500 feet high Sach Pass on the Pir-Panjal Range near the Himachal – J&K border. I duly packed my saddle bag with loads of warm clothing and stuff like balaclavas and inner gloves (for the high mountain passes). Trivedi was raring to go and we were happy to get company in the form of Sandeep (Arya, urf Bhai). Arya was headed to his home in Panchkula and we had to drop him off at Ambala.

The clock was ticking fast and it was 2130 hours already when we put our saddle bag on to my Avenger. All 3 of us sat astride the bikes parked in front of Change Masters (MDI Gurgaon PG Hostel) and zoomed on to NH-8. Crossed Dhaula Kuan and crossed Pitampura before taking the Outer Ring Road to reach Mukarba Chowk (NH-1). The stretch between Mukarba ChowK and Singhu Border (Delhi-Haryana border on NH-1) was bad as usual and we crossed into Haryana at about 2300 hours. We tanked up near Rai (Sonipat) and stopped for the much boasted paranthas at Murthal. Feasted on an assortment of butter laced paranthas and (a bit too) sweat lassi! The ride thereafter was eventless but for a chai break near Karnal. We reached Ambala at about 0300 hours where Arya deboarded and hopped onto a bus to Chandigarh. Now it were just me and Trivedi on our respective steeds!!!

We withdrew money from the SBI ATM at Ambala Cantt Railway station and zoomed away towards our destination, which was far far away!!! While one road veered right towards Chandigarh, we took the other one to Ludhiana on NH-1. We continued past Sirhind and stopped by the side of the road and looked at each other’s face with a wry smile, it was a long long way ahead, and it was 0400 hours already. With oodles of josh and excellent road condition, we resumed our journey and reached Ludhiana at about 0530 hours. Crossed the circle and rushed straight past to Jallandhar. It was dawn by about 0640 and we paused for our first photo break:

Sunrise near Phagwara, Punjab (above)

It had been 10 hours that we were riding and we were nearing Jallandhar now. Reached Jallandhar at about 0800 hours and moved on without stopping over at the town. The city wasn’t too crowded at that time and we crossed it without much of a fuss. The road continued to be good for the next 20 kms before it reduced to a single carriageway double lane road. This stretch now was really bumpy with innumerable potholes. It was 0900 hours now and we decided to take a breather. Stopped at a smallish dhaba by the roadside and the first thing we did was to brush our teeth. Washed our faces at the hand-pump (thank god we carried a facewash!) and ordered a cup of tea each.

Brushing our teeth and enjoying the morning cuppa at a Dhaba (above)

We started again at about 0940 hours and were hurled back into the oh so bad roads to Pathankot. It was getting too difficult and our progress was punishingly slow - we were clocking an average speed of 25-30 kmph. We took a break again (largely to answer nature’s morning call which we had been postponing for some time) at a Drive Thru McDonald’s!!! We were only the 2nd customer at the McD (which was attached to a Petrol Pump) and the first thing Trivedi did was enter straight into the wash room, while I sat with the route map trying to look busy to the counter clerk! Trivedi emerged only after 15 mins while I ordered a Mc Aloo Tikki to assure the cashier that were not merely there for squatting!!! While I relieved myself at the clean ‘facility’, Trivedi got us a couple of burgers and cold drinks. We started again at about 1130 hours and progressed slowly, though steadily, towards Pathankot. Reached the town at 1300 hours and continued non-stop on the road to Chamba. The hill roads started at about 1345 hours while we were still in Punjab. We stopped by at a Bajaj authorised service station in Dunera as Trivedi needed to get his bike a rear side indicator and a rear view mirror. I also took the opportunity to lubricate and tighten my drive chain. We tanked up at the next petrol pump and rode on towards Chamba.

The roads now were pretty average and did’nt give us much of a trouble. Punctuated by a few tea breaks, our ride was more or less continuous till we came across this stunning view:

The NHPC Chamera Dam (above), and its reservoir

This man made reservoir presented a stunning vista. We moved on amidst an always improving scenery and we clicked quite a few pics on our way to Chamba.

Trivedi Saab and Me by the River Ravi, approaching Chamba (top, above); and the Ravi Valley (above)

This is how your rear view mirror looks in the mountains (above)

We reached Chamba at 1600 hours and stopped for directions to Bairagarh (road to Sach Pass and beyond into Lahaul). We were instructed to cross the bridge on the river Ravi and proceed towards Tissa where we would find our night shelter. We topped up our fuel tanks shortly after crossing the bridge and started again. It was 1630 now. We clicked a few more photographs from this side of the river.

Myriad colors on the waters of the Chamera Reservoir, sundown near Chamba (above)

It became dark at about 1800 hours while we were 50 kms from Tissa. It started looking impossible for us to reach Tissa now that I was dark, not to say that we had been riding for 21 straight hours now!!! It was pitch dark now at 1845 hours and we decided it was time for us to stop. Tissa was still too far and local villagers suggested we go back some 3 kms and take a detour there to stop at the PWD Rest House at Sundla. We took the road back and then turned right at the chowk. With no signboards showing Sundla markings and knowing that this road leads to Doda in J&K, we were worried if we’ll reach the right place. However, things started getting back on track when we crossed a bridge on a tributary of the Ravi ad spotted a board stating that the PWD Guest House, Sundla, is merely 2 km ahead. Reaching Sundla at 1930 hours, we realized we had just completed a 22 hours straight ride from Gurgaon to Sundla! However it took us some time to convince the PWD caretaker that we were students coming from Gurgaon on bikes and that we desperately needed a room in there at the Guest House. He did eventually gave us a room for Rs 300. The village of Sundla was sleepy already as we could find just 1 dhaba serving food at that time. However it served us simply awesome food that included dal makhani, kari pakora and palak ki sabzi!!! This food was simply finger licking at dirt cheap prices, a fitting end to a really great day of motorcycle riding.

Day 2

This was to be a day of reckoning, a day of rigour and hardship. We took our morning bath and dressed up to leave for the ultimate destination – Sach Pass. Here is a pic we took at the PWD Guest House that morning:

PWD Guest House at Sundla (above)

We left the Guest House at about 0800 hours and headed straight to the Chamba-Bairagarh road where we had taken a detour the previous day. Stopped by to click this photograph:

Beginning of Day 2

We were cruising comfortably on the road towards Bairagarh when we decided to stop by at a small roadside temple to seek the Almighty’s blessings. The priest put tilak on our forehead and offered us Prasad, meanwhile a group of locals surrounded our motorcycles (that’s the kind of interest my Avenger generates while in remote areas!). They bid farewell to us and told us that the road after Bairagarh is really bad and we should tread with caution. We stopped thereafter at a small village at about 1030 hours and ventured into a ramshackle eatery there. The man there prepared us some nice paranthas, served hot with dahi and kari pakora, and offcourse tea that is customary in the hills! Now having had our morning breakfast, it was time for us to brace for the tough ride ahead. We kept on riding past villages till we got a first clear view of snow on the nearby mountains.

First View of snow laden mountains (above)

As we just crossed Bairagrh, I told Trivedi to continue while I stopped by at a small Hanuman Temple. Here are some pics:

A small Hanuman Temple located by the road, Bairagarh (above)

It was now that things started getting difficult. The metalled road gave way to a lousy dirt track and we were immediately into a thick forest. The road was so bad that we were barely managing a speed of 10-15 kmph. However this was only the beginning as there were no signs of improvement in road condition whatsoever. We moved slowly ahead and after about 5 kms of dirt road we reached Kalaban (this place is nothing more than a milestone stating Kalaban – O Km!). It was here that the forest gave way to open mountainscapes and the sight was a treat for the city bred eyes. We immediately clicked a few photographs:

The dilapidated road that leads to Sach Pass

There was no traffic at all on the roads after Kalaban, and obviously so! Shortly afterwards as the roads got real nasty with the speedometer needle refusing to budge from its flaccid zero level, grave doubts started occupying Trivedi’s mind. He stopped his bike and said, “Pant Saab ab aage nahin jayenge …..” I discovered that he was worried about ruining Tude’s bike on these lunar roads, and also realised that this tour was simply too overwhelming for a first time motorcycle tourer. We talked over the issue for some 10-12 minutes and finally I managed to convince Trivedi to move on, “Ab yahaan taka a kar manzil se pehle wapas nahin ja sakte Trivedi Saab ….”

The spot where we stood to clear the doubts off Trivedi Saab's mind

We started again with a renewed vigour, all topsy turvy over the cobble stone roads. This is when we saw our first patch of snow ….

First patch of snow near a small waterfall, nearing Satrundi

We kept riding over to our next milestone place called Satrundi. Reached there at about 1300 hours. The police wallahs (Himachal Police) there stopped us and told us that we would need to register with them before going any further. They said this was because this was a border area (J&K – HP border) and terrorists had sneaked in 7 years back and killed a few Gaddi shepherds in this region. We showed our driving license and duly registered with our residential address and telephone numbers. Started on our final ascent towards Sach Pass at 1330 hours. The distance was a mere 12 kms but we had a really steep climb involving a series of sharp hairpin bends.

An assortment of pics showing the road to Sach Pass (above)

We could see the road winding up the barren mountain slope directly above our heads and could even make out the cup like indenture of the Sach Pass at the top. We knew the destination was close by and the most difficult part would start now. We posed for another pic and suddenly Trivedi’s Puslar slipped out of the side stand and fell on the road with a thud. And to our worst fear, its engine refused to light up after that!!!

It was here that the Pulsar's engine sent a chill down our spines!

We were shell shocked as there was no hope of finding a mechanic for miles in either direction. We tried to kick start the Pulsar in a jiffy and fortunately for us the engine started showing signs of revival and eventually did lit up! We were might relieved but the bike was still not able to pull uphill with the rider sitting astride. We decided to run the engine idle for about 5mins and tried again. It managed to show better torque response and finally pulled Trivedi up the slope. Obviously the rarefied atmospheric air had a role to play in this trouble. I followed Trivedi to make sure that he is doing fine. Meanwhile clicked a few more pics:

The South-Western spur of the Pir-Panjal Mountain Range (above); and, approaching Sach Pass (below)

Trivedi rides above all mountains (above)

After about 6 kms from Satrundi, and we could see that we were high above all mountains to the South. The Sach Pass lay directly above us amidst the mighty Pir Panjal Range that stood like a huge wall of rock and snow. The mountainscape above us looked like this:

The harsh landscape around Sach Pass (14,500 ft above MSL)

We were amidst huge ice shelves now as they still lay there on the mountain slopes. They were resulting in numerous small streams of water flowing on the now invisible roads! There were huge puddles of water and at times it was really difficult to tell the road a distance. We had to get down the bikes and push them across on many occasions now. It was really tough and we were really struggling with or heavy bikes. The photograph below shows us pushing our bike across:

Hauling our bikes on this path called Road

Now we were almost at the Pass and could see the road getting lost downhill on the other side of the pass. The scene changed dramatically and we witnessed one of the most awesome spectacle we had ever seen. What lay on the other side cannot be described sans this pic:

Our bikes on the other side of the Sach Pass (above)

My bike amidst powdery soft snow (above)

Here we are, at the 14,500 feet high Sach Pass!!!

That was the leeward side of the Pir-Panjal Range and was therefore completely covered with snow even at that time of the year. The panoramic view was so very mesmerising that we stood speechless for a couple of minutes and stared at each other rather blankly. What an awesome reward it was for our gruelling ride uphill to this 14,500 feet high mountain pass. More pics:

Contrasting road conditions on the 2 sides of the Sach Pass (above, top)
The magnificent snow clad peaks around the Sach Pass (above)
The wastelands of Lahaul across the Sach Pass (below)

Me on the other side of the Sach Pass (above, top)
The downward spiralling road leading to Killar (above)
Trivedi posing near the bikes at Sach Pass (below)

We clicked a lot of photos at the Pass when suddenly the camera batteries gave away at the very inopportune moment. Could do nothing but use my mobile phone for clicking some more photographs. The road had now started descending towards Killar in the Lahaul valley that lay spread out before our eyes. It was so inviting, but we had to turn back as it was 1530 hours already and we didn’t have much time at hand (as is the case always!). Clicked a few more photographs at the tiny temple at the pass before starting back towards Satrundi. We returned to Satrundi with a sense elation and an overwhelming feeling of achievement. Continued straight back and it was pitch dark by the time we crossed Kalaban. We had seen a PWD Guest House at Bairagarh while the journey uphill and decided that we will call it a day at the very same Guest House. We reached the Guest House at 1900 hours and quickly went for dinner to the nearby eatery. We quickly fell asleep upon returning to the Guest House after pitting up are electronic gadgets in charging mode. This was the end of an eventful Day 2.

Day 3

This day was nothing much to write about as were simply retracing our old treadmarks. However we took the road to Dalhousie via Khajjiar from Chamba to break the boredom of repetition. Clicked some pics enroute before we joined back the old road at Banikhet. It was dark by the time we reached Pathankot and we continued riding past Jallandhar and halted for the day at a ramshackle hotel in Ludhiana. A few pics we took around Dalhousie, and beyond:

Me posing in the backdrop of the holy Manimahesh Kailash (above, top)
Trivedi and Me at Khajjiar (above); the sun finally set on our adventure trail! (below)

Day 4

It was a rather simple ride back from Ludhiana to the MDI (Gurgaon ) Hostel. We started from Ludhiana at around 0830 hours and stopped for lunch (Me had a fast as it was Tuesday again for me) at Karnal. I had a cup of coffee and we sped towards Delhi.

Last day of riding, nearing the Punjab-Haryana border (above)

We crossed the Singhu Border into Delhi at about 1515 hours and reached our hostel at about 1620 hours. A successful finish to a memorable bike ride. Here is one final pic upon our arrival at MDI.

The concluding photograph of our wonderful wonderful trip (above)